This can be done using our Syringe Bleeding Kit which is included in every power booster system that we sell. Once that has been completed, the rest of the brakes can be bleed. As you go through the brake bleeding process, keep an eye on the fluid level in the reservoir, topping off as you go to keep it from reintroducing air into the system.
With everything installed and bled, the vehicle can now be driven and checked for proper operation. When doing this, take it easy to begin with. It is better to find something was missed at slow speed versus high speed.
Once comfortable with the installation, enjoy your work and how much easier it will be to drive your classic car. Better yet, how much easier it is on you to stop!! As long as you have the right parts, tools, and know-how on your side, you can install a power brake booster conversion yourself. If you do not feel confident, however, a professional automotive technician can help you out. You can also receive advice and support from the specialists at Master Power Brakes.
Just give us a call at or fill out our online form to start learning how to treat your classic car to a power braking system. Copyright Master Power Brakes. All Rights Reserved. Sign In My Cart. Tech Talk with Master Power Brakes.
If you want your classic car to perform at its best, the manual brakes have got to go. Gather Your Parts Whether your car came with power brakes as an option, or not, greatly influences which parts you will need for this upgrade.
For most power brake booster conversions, you may need: 1. Single or dual diaphragm power brake booster 2. Dual reservoir master cylinder 3. Proportioning valve 4. Pedal assembly 5. Vacuum hose 7. Fittings If your vehicle has a high-performance cam that reduces vacuum pressure, you may also need a Silent Drive Vacuum Pump to deliver vacuum to the booster. Remove the Old Master Cylinder With all the organization and safety considerations out of the way, it is time to remove the old master cylinder by following these steps: Remove the fluid from the master cylinder and discard Disconnect the hydraulic fluid lines and set to the side Loosen and remove the nuts securing the master cylinder Carefully remove the master cylinder without dripping any remaining brake fluid If replacing the master cylinder with a new one, throw the old one away.
Disconnect the Pedal Assembly Depending on the application, you will likely need to disconnect the pedal assembly from the firewall. Overfilling the master cylinder will not allow a sufficient amount for the brake fluid to expand due to heat expansion.
Caliper due to inflation fluid causing residual friction. You push away that piston to replace a pad and not examine the fluid level results in the same issue. You can resolve this problem by optimum filling its level and check it properly with time. Both the low level and excess filling are the problem. You have to check the fluid amount, which turns on the key and allows the pump to run until it stops. The possible cause of its issue is the brake loss and defective master cylinder.
Sometimes the pedal hits the floor if no pressure occurs on it. It happens if you are not getting enough brakes. These cannot return to their original position on their own. You have to maintain the lever and optimize the pressure so you cannot face future problems.
First of all, you must set the parking brakes on your truck. So that it may not roll while replacing the brake master cylinder, then, open the hood and locate it. It will set the tone and make sure proper working conditions to replace the brake master cylinder on your Ford truck.
Any mishandling in truck preparation for replacement of brake master cylinder will cause irreparable damage to the cylinder assembly and the persons working on its replacement. Therefore, you must be keen and extra careful in preparing the truck or setting it on the right platform to replace the brake master cylinder. For this, you must first unscrew the bolts. Usually, the brake master cylinder attaches with two screws to discs and a yellow casing.
Removal of these two screws or unscrewing these two will bring the brake master cylinder out of its container. It would be best to remember when you would unscrew the brake master from its casing discs attached with brake masters must not be damaged or impacted. If discs are damaged, you have to replace the brake master cylinder and stop discs.
It would be best to make sure the above precautions in unscrewing the brake master cylinder before going for its replacement. Now, place the new brake master cylinder in its place and screw it with bolts. Usually, assembling of brake master cylinder in the truck needs two bolts.
One bolt screw on the right side, while the other screwed on the left side of the yellow casing. After this, connect the brake lines with the brake master cylinder. It will make sure a smooth flow of air needs to press discs against the wheels.
After this, the next priority in the replacement of the brake master cylinder is to reconnect all wires which we disconnected for the removal of the previous brake master cylinder. It will ensure a smooth power supply or flow of electric current to the brake master cylinder for its smooth working.
During reconnecting wires, you must remember these must be of the best quality with minimum resistivity and must properly insulate to avoid any mishap during the flow of current to the assembly of the brake master cylinder. In addition to the above steps, now you must unscrew the reservoir cap. After removing it, start filling the reservoir with Dot 3 fluid meant for applying hydraulic pressure in the tank.
While filling this fluid, you must remember it must be up to the MAX line mentioned in the reservoir. Moreover, after ensuring the reservoir is full of brake fluid, now you must screw the top of the chamber to ensure that fluid may not leak during the operation of the master brake cylinder while applying brakes.
In most cases, the top of the reservoir does not screw properly, which results in leakage of fluid, and less fluid is available to apply hydraulics pressure. Release the safety clip of the electrical connector and gently pull it from the fluid level sensor in the reservoir. Use a line wrench and firmly secure it on the brake fluid lines to remove them. These line wrench sizes are usually 13mm, 14mm, 15mm or 16mm.
Apply force to the wrench in a counterclockwise motion to loosen and remove the line fitting. Repeat the operation until all fluid lines are removed.
These lines can be fairly tight so be ready. As you loosen the lines brake fluid will start to leak out. You can install a shop towel below the master to catch the fluid and then discard the towel once the job is completed.
Once all of the lines have been removed use a wrench or socket to loosen and remove the master cylinder mounting bolts. These nut sizes are usually 14mm or 15mm. After all mounting bolts are removed push the master forward and then lift it off the mounting studs and then out of the engine compartment. Have a shop towel ready for the removal to stop dripping brake fluid from potentially getting on the car's paint.
Reinstall the New Master Cylinder: Before the new master cylinder can be installed it must be bench bled. Hold the master cylinder in a vise so it doesn't move. Then remove the fluid lid of the reservoir. Remove the dust caps that cover the line holes of the master. Then install the master cylinder bleeder kit which is two or four plastic fittings and rubber hoses which will be connected to the fittings and then routed back into the fluid reservoir.
Make sure the lines are far enough into the reservoir as to not suck in air. Fill the master reservoir with brake fluid. Use a large Phillips screw driver and place it at the rear of the master and into the plunger. Now start pushing the plunger into the master. Air bubbles will start to come out of the rubber lines inside the reservoir as you press inward.
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